There is nothing that a little black vinyl, a vinyl cutter, some wood, a band saw, paint and a closet light hack can’t do!

This cabinet is sort of a bridge between the game and the physical space where it is located. Some questions I asked myself: How can I best communicate the content of the game cabinet to the physical space around it? How can I create a playful environment around the game itself, so that it encourages people to play and entices people to try out the game if they haven’t before?

Some design strategies used for the cabinet are:

• Playing with the scale of objects to create whimsy (large scale button & throwing stars)
• Very easy 1 button interface (large start button)
• Combining 2 seemingly contrasting styles: cute & fierce bunny ninjas in action poses
• Using ninja theme from the game for the decals — based in arcade cabinets of the 80′s, where there were a lot of action images of the characters of the games on the cabinet
• Use of florescent lighting which makes photos look better by washing out facial details as on many Purikura kiosks — the idea here is that the better the photos look, the more people would want to play (although I guess, some of the poses are too silly for that!)

I am teaching this workshop again starting next week September 21st – October 26th, Wednesdays from 6:30-9pm. For more info go here: http://www.eyebeam.org/events/beyond-the-joystick-introduction-to-alternative-physical-interfaces-0

I found a 5 dollar pack of 2 lights at Home Depot and took them apart. I then opened it and did the following:

• I replaced the on-off switch inside the light with a momentary snap switch that is normally open and glued it down.
• I rewired the snap switch with the usual “button circuit” –  a 10k resistor, ground, voltage, and a wire to pin2 on the Arduino.
• I rewired the light bulb so that the Arduino can control it from pin8, via reed relay.
• I mounted it on to the game cabinet

I used the digital Button code example and now I have an obnoxiously large push button made cheaply. I separated the light from the switch part so that the game can flash the button light whenever it wants to bring attention to the push button, even if it hasn’t been pushed yet.

http://www.eyebeam.org/events/beyond-the-joystick-introduction-to-alternative-physical-interfaces

I am running this workshop series weekly on Tuesday Evenings for 6 weeks, starting on June 28 to Aug 2 at Eyebeam. It’s basically for artists, designers and hobbyists interested in starting to think about and explore alternative physical interfaces that can be used in games, toys or interactive art projects. We’ll be learning about using the Arduino and some Processing with various sensors and switches to make simple, but effective controllers. This area is a big part of my practice so I am really excited about sharing it!

I finally purchased the equipment to make the two wireless cameras feed simultaneously into processing.I am using the following set up:

• 2 x Wireless Security Kit from Geeks.com (they work on different channels around 2.4Ghz)
• XLR8 XtraView USB (composite video to USB adapter using, driver that comes with it)
• Canopus ADVC-55 (composite video to firewire adapter, no driver necessary)

1. Better wireless pin-hole cameras. For the game, I need 2 cameras that are same but run on different channels. I found some rechargeable ones at Geeks that have a choice of 4 different channels around the 2.4 Ghz frequency. Unfortunately I won’t know how the system would run in a space until I actually try it out. There are always going to be things that run on the 2.4 Ghz range, as well as the 900 Mhz range that my older cameras ran on. In the Chelsea Museum show, the old cameras conflicted with the project that was running right before mine, but it worked fine as soon as the previous project was turned off. So I am looking forward to getting them quick to try out in the space.

2. Better doorbell system. For the game, I need 2 that run on different channels like the cameras, but they can share the same receiver. I found a set on amazon which can run on a range of frequencies it seems, but I am waiting for an email reply from the manufacturer about what frequency it runs on. I don’t want anything that would interfere with the cameras. Also I would like to get ones with lower latency from my previous set. However, latency is not really an important function when it comes to doorbells, so it’s not a function that is highlighted or written about. Basically it’s hard to research that information before purchasing.

3. Rewriting software on Processing.

4. Composite Video to USB adapter. I already have a one that goes to firewire.

After working on Mary Mack 5000 and adding the rocker vests with the sensors, I think I understand more not only how technology can enhance the game experience, but also how costumes can. Sure, I could have kept the sensors on bandana straps, but the vest was more stable — kept the sensors together in a neat pack so it was easier to put on and take off. But more importantly it also added to the immersive game experience. I think there is a lot of room for incorporating various technology beyond the contact sensor system, when it comes to bodies/costumes that I need to explore more, such as IR, 3D projection, computer vision and the hacked Kinect. This idea really excites me and clicks with me, as a large part of my career has been in fashion design (and a little in costumes too).

I have been obviously neglecting my blog for the last few months, but I assure you there is a good reason — X-lab! X-lab was sort of a work-in-progress exhibition in the main space at Eyebeam. So imagine the gallery usually for finished works, filled up instead with artists working on their projects, engaging with the public during gallery hours. I used to space to set up Ninja Shadow Warrior and to build the physical game, as well as used the generous table space to work on improving Mary Mack 5000. It was wonderful meeting people, watching people try out the game, and getting feedback. This is kind of the most ideal situation for designing and making games, I think.

Anyways, there was a tumblr site set up for X-lab where I would post some entries of how my work had been progressing. Hence the neglect of my blog! I will see if I can transfer some of the content to this blog.

Update: I was able to add the posts from X-lab on earlier posts here.